The Rolex GMT-Master has become a symbol of an era when travel was glamorous and adventurous. Originally designed for aviators, this colorful watch has transcended its roots, becoming a favorite of astronauts, test pilots, TV icons, and business leaders. While its sibling, the Submariner, is more well-known, the GMT-Master is perhaps the best representation of clone Rolex’s dedication to versatility and durability. Even as modern updates have brought improvements, the original GMT-Master holds a special place in the hearts of collectors.
In July 1954, the Boeing 707 made its first flight, launching the jet age. Overnight, travel across time zones became a matter of hours rather than days. Capitalizing on this shift, Pan American Airlines became Boeing’s first customer for the 707, ordering 20 jets for transatlantic routes. That same year, Rolex debuted the GMT-Master (reference 6542) in response to Pan Am’s request for a watch capable of tracking two time zones – a crucial tool for long-haul pilots.
The early 1950s marked a transformative period for Rolex. In 1953, the Oyster Perpetual was worn during the first successful Everest expedition, and the same year, replica Rolex introduced the Submariner, the world’s first purpose-built dive watch. Soon after, the anti-magnetic Milgauss followed. With these innovations, Rolex solidified its reputation for building durable, purpose-driven “tool watches.” The GMT-Master continued this trend, offering not just ruggedness but also a significant complication.
A “complication” in watchmaking refers to any function beyond basic time-telling. Rolex had already innovated in this space with the DateJust in the 1940s, adding an automatically-changing date. The GMT-Master introduced another major complication: a fourth hand. This 24-hour hand, moving at half the speed of the hour hand, allows the wearer to track two time zones simultaneously. While the technology behind this isn’t exceptionally complex, Rolex was the first to apply it in a practical and user-friendly way.
The GMT-Master’s defining feature is its rotating 24-hour bezel. The large arrow on the fourth hand points to the bezel, allowing the wearer to track another time zone. For long-haul pilots, this feature made it easy to keep track of both local time and GMT (Greenwich Mean Time), hence the watch’s name. Beyond practicality, the original “Pepsi” bezel – featuring blue and red segments – added visual flair. The color scheme isn’t just for aesthetics: the blue half represents night hours (6 pm to 6 am), while the red half covers the day (6 am to 6 pm). Other bezel options, including red-and-black and all-black, were later offered, but the Pepsi remains the most iconic.
The GMT-Master evolved through subtle design updates, with one of its longest-running references being the 1675. Produced from 1959 to 1980, the 1675 is still highly regarded for its timeless design and reliability. Notably, Apollo astronaut Jack Swigert wore a 1675 on his journey around the Moon during the Apollo 13 mission, and Chuck Yeager, the famed test pilot, was often seen sporting one.
Rolex unveiled a completely redesigned replica Rolex GMT-Master II at the BaselWorld watch fair. With a larger case, ceramic bezel, and a sturdier bracelet, the GMT-Master II is technically superior to the original. However, like the evolution of air travel, the new watch lacks some of the vintage charm and spirit that defined its predecessor.